Coffee's 'third wave' gathers pace in Jakarta

JAKARTA -- On a recent visit to a Jakarta cafe, I ordered ice-brewed coffee, known as kopi in Indonesia's national language. Fighting the urge to swallow quickly, I let the black liquid lie in my mouth for a while. Gradually, it released hints of citrus, jasmin and rose -- coffee flavors that embody Indonesia's cultural, linguistic, ethnic and geographical complexity.

Indonesia is the world's largest archipelagic nation -- home to more 18,000 islands and about 1,300 ethnic groups. From Sumatra in the west to Papua in the east, just about every corner of the country has a coffee specialty.